ALWAYS THINK SAFETY! Drill bits can shatter during use. Always wear safety glasses when operating power tools. Always disconnect power before changing drill bits.
Table Saw: 1/ Maintain concentration! 2/ Use a Riving Blade 3/ Use push sticks or feather boards 4/ Never place hands behind blade 5/ Wear goggles
Router or radial arm saw: Always read and follow all manufacturers safety guidelines.
For inquiries on furniture design and dowel construction please call Toll Free
Create design sketch of sideboard with ogee feet.
Prepare work piece for Ogee shape feet – Block 1-1/4″ x 4″ x 15″ with 45 degree mitered ends – 4 of.
Use shop made accessory to configure Dowelmax reference block and angle bracket to join mitered ends of ogee feet workpieces.
Position and align Dowelmax miter joint configuration with shop made accessory to drill 4 accurately placed dowel holes.
Dowels are positioned away from the outer edge by use of the 3/8 spacer.
To avoid injury, it is essential to clamp the fence in a position between the operator and the sawblade, so that the cutting direction of the blade pushes the work piece into the fence, rather than pulling it away, which would be dangerous. Use table saw to shape outer curvature of ogee feet.
Use hand plane to refine outer shape of ogee feet.
Mark inner curvature of ogee feet using template and shape in the bandsaw.
Glue and clamp feet.
Prepare four corner posts: 1-5/8″ x 1-5/8″ x 31-1/8″.
The two front posts have mating inner verticals: 1″ x 1″ 31-1/8″. The inner vertical has a relief or offset of 1/4″ from the face of the front post. The dowel placement is staggered to avoid fouling. Use guides 1, 2 and 3 on Dowelmax to join inner vertical to rail. Then use guides 4 & 5 to join front post to inner vertical. Front post lengths are identical, therefore reference the lower joint from the bottom of the post using the same layout. Use the distance gauge to reference the middle dowels for the post to inner vertical, and for the lower inner vertical to rail dowels.
Prepare front and rear rails. Front rails: Two of 7/8″ x 2-/18 x 55″ and one of 7/8″ x 1-1/2″ x 55″. Rear rails: Two of 7/8″ x 2-1/8″ x 57″ and one of 7/8″ x 1-1/2 x 57″. Ensure all lengths are identical and all edges are square.
Reference from the top three equidistant dowels in 2-1/8″ rail and two equidistant dowels in 1-1/2″ rail.
Prepare front and rear inner verticals for drawer assembly: Four of 7/8″ x 1-1/2″ x 27″. Prepare horizontal drawer rails: Two of 7/8″ x 1-1/2″ x 18″. Drawer face heights : Three along top – 4-1/4″; Three at lower center – 6″.
All joints are dowel construction with the exception of the joints at the junction of the inner verticals and intermediate rail.
The half lap joints where the inner verticals meet the intermediate rail.
Route rails, stiles and panels for transverse end panels. Stub tenon is 3/8 penetration and requires additional strength. Use shop made stop arrangement to cut stiles to identical lengths and then reference Dowelmax from the top and the bottom to install two dowels at each corner. A spacer is required to center on the stub tenon and collar depths are required to be adjusted to accomodate the tenon length and mortise depth.
Work piece sizes for two end panels: Stile: 4 of 7/8″ x 3-1/4″ x 31-1/8″ Rail: 4 of 7/8″ x 3-1/4″ x 9″ Panel: 2 of 7/8″ x 9″ x 25-1/4″ Finished Assembly: 14-3/4″ x 31-1/8″
Center panel is 9″ wide so 2 – 4-1/2″ panels are joined at center line using 6 dowels and the distance gauge.
Route door rails, stiles and center panels identical as for end panels. Again use 2 – 1/4 ” dowels in each corner, and 6 – 3/8 dowels to join the two center panel work pieces to widen the center panel as shown above. Each door consists of: Stiles: 7/8″ x 3″ x 21″ Rails: 7/8″ x 3″ x 11-3/4″ Panel: 7/8″ x 11-3/4″ x 15-3/4″
Sideboard Top: 20″ x 63-1/4″ design top with grain in differing directions. Undercut panels approximately 3/8″ to relieve stresses due to wood movement.
To enable the placement of dowels running parallel, the outer frame is drilled prior to cutting the miter.
Miter front and end panels as shown above.
Drawers: Cut front, rear and side panels for all six drawers using baltic birch or oak faced plywood. Top Centre Drawer(One): 1/2″ x 4-1/8″ x 17″ – 2 of, and 1/2″ x 4-1/8″ x 14-1/2″ – 2 of; Left and Right Top Drawers(Two) : 1/2″ x 4-1/8″ x 16″ – 2 of, and 1/2 x 4-1/8″ x 14-1/2″ – 2 of; Lower Mid Drawers(Three) 1/2″ x 5-3/4″ x 17″ – 2 of and 1/2″ x 5-3/4″ x 14-1/2″ – 2 of. Butt join drawer front and rear to inside of drawers sides so that no raw edge is visible when drawers are open. Rabbet lower insides of panels to accept drawer bottom to eliminate raw edge.
Use Dowelmax 1/8 spacer fastened to reference bracket by supplied capscrews to center 1/4 inch dowels on 1/2″ plywood. Use 4 x 1/4″ dowels on smaller drawers. When using 1-1/2″ long dowels, adjust drill collar to drill bores 1-1/8″ deep to compensate for shorter bores on face joint for drawer sides.
Use 5 x 1/4 inch dowels on larger drawer using supplied index pin to extend the dowels along the end of the drawer fronts. When using 1-1/2″ long dowels, adjust drill collar to drill bores 1-1/8″ deep to compensate for shorter bores on face joint for drawer sides.
Change the Dowelmax to the second configuration to drill dowel bores into the drawer side faces. For face joint, adjust collar stop to shorten drilling depth to 3/8″ deep to avoid drilling through drawer side.
With Dowelmax in the second configuration, use 5 x 1/4 inch dowels on larger drawer using supplied index pin to extend the dowels along the end of the drawer fronts. For face joint, adjust collar stop to shorten drilling depth to 3/8″ deep to avoid drilling through drawer side.
Bulkhead/Partition: 15-3/4″ x 31-1/8″ Segregating drawer space from cardboard space and to provide additional strength and rigidity. Eight double dowels each end on two bulkheads (use distance gauge set at approximately 7-1/2″) Reference from top, affix to two inner verticals on front and rear framework. Use 1/2 inch oak faced plywood and 1/4″ dowels.
Sideboard assembled and dry fitted using no glue and 50% of dowels only.
Sideboard ready for final sanding.
To facilitate final finishing, disassemble alll sections and lay out flat. Cover dowel holes and surfaces to be glued with painters tape. Place the tape carefully so that when the various components are joined, no bare unstained surfaces are visible. For cherry I use a conditioner made up from shellac and methyl hydrate , 1 part shellac to 3 parts methyl hydrate. Apply conditioner liberally with the grain, rub in and leave overnight.
Again, the stain is easier to apply with the various pieces flat and no protruding surfaces to cope with. Apply liberally with the grain. Allow to settle and be absorbed by the surface pores, then rub in, removing the excess at the same time. Re-do after 24 hours if a deeper slightly darker coat is needed.
I use a Turbo-Air system together with a water based lacquer for the final coats. I built a vertical stand with casters to enable me to rotate the piece during the spraying process. I would suggest at least three coats to finalize.
Assembly: I use a small stiff artists paint brush to apply the glue, coating the inner periphery of the holes, the exterior of the dowels, and the mating surfaces. Try to avoid excess coating, however if excess seeps out it is much easier to clean off finished surfaces than bare wood.